Almost all horsemen have had that dream of driving their horse down a quiet country road. But
are you courting disaster with your used harness and antique buggy?
Have you ever seen an old harness hanging in a barn and wanted to drag it down, take it home
and try driving your horse?
Or your neighbor has a doctor’s buggy in his garage that he’ll let you have, cheap?
Safe equipment is most important when you consider driving. Harness leather can be deceiving.
Too often the remedy for stiff, dirty, old leather is to have it dipped in a barrel of oil. This leaves
the leather pliable and soft in appearance but hides many problems. You need to check carefully
for cracks on the outside then twist the leather tightly. Watch for further separation of fibers and
dryness inside the leather. This is a sure sign of rotting and weakness. Heavily oiling dirty leather
can create weak spots and rot the threads. Try and pull apart the sewn spots. If the thread comes
apart with just your strength it certainly will come apart with a horse. Harness leather if not
cleaned in hot water with good glycerin leather soap, then oiled correctly with pure Neats Foot Oil
on a regular basis will dry out and rot. Look closely at the hardware used. Are the buckles all in
good shape? Are the tongues bent? The girth should have roller buckles to make fastening easier.
Are all the parts there? If you have to start buying individual parts the price of your harness can
double.
New harness may be the less expensive and much safer way to start driving. Prices of light
driving harness have become much more competitive since the internet became a popular selling
place. Prices range from a couple of hundred dollars to over a thousand, depending on maker
and quality of leather. You should be aware that the least expensive harness usually is imported
from India. This does not necessarily mean it is unacceptable or of poor quality. I know of one
importer whose harness is very acceptable for driving down the road or recreation.
Buying harness at auctions or on Ebay can be disappointing. Quite often you get a harness of poor
quality or the size is incorrect. Cruppers don’t have buckles and the bridles don’t have winker
braces. Most of these sellers do not allow you to return or exchange your item.
The Amish are producing more harness then ever before. In years past I would guarantee Amish
harness sight unseen. But due to supply and demand the quality and dependability on a continual
basis is questionable. Certainly it comes at a good price and the leather is generally of good quality.
Too often I’ve seen straps of unequal length and parts fitting more then one size horse in one
harness.
Deciding on the size you need is also very important. The best way to acquire the correct size is to
send your horse’s measurements to the harness supplier. Most good suppliers will tell you where
to measure your horse and ship the best fit.
If you drive more then one size horse you may want to consider adjustable shafts. These extend in
length and width. One size will fit minis to 48”, or pony to small horse and small horse to full size.
Wheel size will change between these heights also.
There are many driving groups all over the northwest, which may give
clinics in your area. Some clinicians supply a horse for you to drive during a lesson. Attending a
clinic as an auditor is also a great way to learn and have questions answered. This may be the way
to go if you are just starting out.
Driving can be great fun if you do it safely and confidently.
Is an antique buggy the best option? There are many manufacturers of horse drawn vehicles in
the United States today. The price of a new vehicle can often times be less then an antique left in
someone’s garage. If your heart is set on a doctor’s buggy check it over carefully. The wheel
spokes should be tightly inserted in the rim and hub. Wheels will have metal or rubber rims. Metal
makes more noise when traveling on gravel or a hard surface. Rubber rims are quiet and give a
smoother ride. The heavy rubber used will last much longer then the life of the buggy.
Look carefully at the under carriage for rusted pieces of frame or splintered rotten wood. To
check for rotten wood insert the pointed end of a knife into the wood. If it easily sinks in more
then a quarter of an inch you will probably have to replace that piece. The turning radius of a
buggy is also a serious consideration. Doctor Buggies or antique spring wagons have a very limited
turning radius. The front wheel hits the box when turning sharply. There should be a roller to
protect against damage during turning.
Do you want 2 or 4 wheels? If cost is a factor you’ll probably want to go with a 2-wheel, easy-
entry, metal pipe cart. They can range in price from $400 to over a thousand depending on
options. If you plan on driving over rough ground and have back problems suspension may be an
important consideration. Most inexpensive pipe carts have only 2 small springs under the seat.
Torsion axles or elliptical springs give a much smoother ride but are more expensive. Pneumatic
tires are less expensive but do go flat easily if driving off-road. You can purchase “no more flats”,
a solid soft rubber tire insert, to help with this problem. Although these inserts only come in a 20”
size. Steel wheels are also an option. Many manufacturers are now making these and they are
great, especially for the heavier driver. Again they add to the cost of the vehicle.
A 4-wheel vehicle does give a much smoother ride but is going to be more expensive. There are
numerous buggy manufacturers in the United States and Canada now. Prices range from a few
thousand to well over ten thousand. Shipping cost is always a consideration when shopping for the
buggy of your dreams. Also if you plan on showing or attending club drives hauling the vehicle can
be difficult. Most modern vehicles will role into your trailer or pick-up box. Shafts can be removed
by pulling pins or unbolting them.